I've done a lot of strange things since coming to Korea. I've eaten whales and dogs, I was on MTV and the Korean equivalent of MSNBC, I got married, but none of those things are really bound for the history books. Yesterday I bore witness to history as it unfolded...or something similar that makes me sound less dramatic happened.
After the death of the former-president, Noh Mu-hyun, there was some debate over what kind of funeral should be held. Apparently there are three varieties for heads of states here. There's the standard issue family funeral (ie. no outsiders), there's a state funeral, and then there's something in-between known as a "people's funeral." That's the one Noh got.
Anyhow on Friday morning, JH and I headed towards 경복궁 where this event was happening. We ended up getting off well before 광화문 station and walking the remaining distance through a sea of humanity clad in yellow*. As we made our way through the crowd some dude gave me Gatorade and a yellow cardboard visor with Noh's face printed on it, and also a yellow paper airplane for me to throw at a funeral procession (I didn't throw it, since it seemed like a rude thing to do).
We made our way up the street, but when it became clear we could go no further, JH and I stopped and watched the funeral as it was broadcast on one of the big TVs outside one of the newspaper buildings in that area. It was pretty odd to be standing in the street mid-morning on a Friday with masses of people watching a funeral on a giant TV, but there I was.
I was glad I was there in person because I was able to see and hear some things that clearly would be edited from the nightly news version. For example, when Lee Myung-bak's face came up on the giant TV screen, a bunch of people started cursing him out and calling him all manner of vile and profane names that bear not repeating in a family friendly blog such as this#.
The funeral wrapped up on the big TV and then it became known that the funeral procession was going to drive through the area. The crowds in the street were told to move back (not get out of the street) to create a corridor through which the hearse could drive. Which shortly thereafter it did.
The procession drove right past us at a crawl. Lots of people threw paper airplanes at it. Lots of people were really emotional about it. The guy behind me in particular was really weeping. The weird thing was that as the procession was driving by, 윤도현 was playing a rock jam on a stage nearby, providing theme music for it.
After the car drove off, JH and I began making our way back through the sea of humanity that had assembled. As we walked I wondered to myself how many of the crying, sad people there had wanted Noh's ass thrown in prison a couple of weeks earlier. I kept those thoughts to myself...until now, because I just typed them on the internet, and many people can read the internet. I'm stopping now.
* Random Korean Cultural Note - Korean pop groups all have a color associated with them so that fans of that group can wave balloons of that particular color at concerts so everyone knows what group they support. This practice seems to have fallen out of favor in the realm of pop music, but still holds true in Korean politics. Noh Mu-hyun's color was yellow. Lee Myung-bak's color is some sort of blue.
# They called him "씹새끼" and other junk that was less crude.